Sue and I spent the long weekend relaxing and exploring the Drumheller Valley, famed for its dinosaur fossils and abandoned coal mines. Less than a 3-1/2 hour drive from Vegreville, Drumheller is another world. Driving through flat farm fields, you suddenly descend into a steep valley eroded over the centuries by the Red Deer River, into a strangely sculpted, parched landscape of coulees, sand dunes, hoodoos, and towering hills.
Some 70 million years ago, the lush environment of Southern Alberta harboured dinosaurs and nurtured luxuriant plants. These deposits were transformed over the ages to leave fossil remains and coal. Then, about 15,000 years ago, the rapid melting of the 1000-metre ice sheet carved this deep valley, and exposed rich coal seams and fossil beds.
Today, the dinosaurs are gone, and the 139 coal mines in this valley have closed, but their legacy remains in the museums, ghost towns, mining artifacts and fossilized remains. It is a fascinating place to visit, and the kids will love it!
We stayed at The Inn & Spa at Heartwood, an upscale, but comfortable Inn within easy walking distance of downtown. The Inn has 9 rooms and two private cottages. We chose the Chancel which was roomy and comfortable, and had a fireplace, cable TV, and a jet tub. Zeke, the owner was there to greet us upon arrival, and ensure all of our needs were looked after. The Inn also offers a wide range of spa services, and a great breakfast.. It would be perfect for families, or for a group of women seeking a quick getaway.
The best place to start a tour of the Drumheller Valley is at the World’s Largest Dinosaur - which stands 86 feet tall. The panoramic view of the river valley from inside her mouth is a must-see, and the Drumheller Visitor Information Centre is located right beside her giant big toe.
The world-famous Royal Tyrrell Museum is the finest dinosaur museum in the world. Here you can cringe beneath the bone-crushing jaws of a gigantic Tyrannosaurus Rex, one of hundreds of specimens on display, and learn the story of the earth’s evolution through the golden age of dinosaurs. Plan to spend at least two hours in the exhibit galleries - even longer if you’re with children.
Horsethief Canyon Viewpoint offers a terrific view of the valley. Looking into the canyon you’ll see lunar-like coulees, ancient bone beds, and various Badlands wildlife species. When ranchers grazed their cattle on the open range here in the late 1800's, rustlers thought this maze of gullies was the perfect place to hide stolen cattle and horses. You can admire the scenery from the viewpoint or hike into the canyon basin for a closer look.
14 km past Horsethief Canyon is the Bleriot Ferry where you and your vehicle cross the Red Deer River on one of the last-remaining cable-operated ferries in Alberta.
En route to the Hoodoos, stop in Rosedale and walk across the Rosedale Suspension Bridge. The bridge was once used by miners to access the Star Mine on the other side of the Red Deer River. Hoodoos are natural mushroom-shaped rock formations, with thick pillars of shale topped by a large sandstone cap. They take millions of years to form. Standing 5 to 7 metres tall, they make a great spot for photographs.
The Atlas Coal Mine is Canada’s last-standing wooden tipple mine. With a guide, you can climb up inside the giant tipple for a close-up look at its miles of conveyor belts and massive machinery. There's lots to see and do at ground level as well.